Melius, nestled in Masdar City, has the kind of menu that you’ve probably not seen before, with Arabic and Italian jostling for space. Far from a culture clash, the difficulty here is trying to choose between the two.

We start by sharing a meat manakeesh, which arrives hot, fragrant and crisp. It’s moreish and disappears within minutes.

For a main course, my guest orders the rib eye steak, served with a wild mushroom sauce and chargrilled vegetables. The meat is tender, the sauce thick and earthy, the perfect balance of flavour.

I opt for the gluten-free pasta, made in-house from scratch, on the advice that it’s as good as the real thing – and it really is. To go with it, I order the signature ‘salsa magica’, a pesto-based sauce amped up with mussels. The sauce is surprisingly light and subtle with the mussels adding a slight salty tang, but I would’ve liked a little more punch from the basil.

We finish the meal off with the mysteriously titled ‘chocolate volcano’, recommended by the assistant manager, Rafael, with a glint in his eye.

What arrives is a chocolate sphere, which gently collapses on itself when a warm chocolate sauce is poured on top. Inside is crème Anglaise, cooked apple and chewy peanut brittle, a perfect combination of textures and flavours.

With friendly, knowledgeable service and a simple menu that hints at elegant execution, it’s clear that Melius knows flavour, whichever cuisine takes
your fancy.

Location: Melius, Irena Building, Masdar City
We say: Classic flavours with a surprise twist
Cost: AED 200 for two
Opening times: Sun-Thu 7am-9pm, Fri-Sat 10am-7pm
Contact: 02 418 2481, facebook.com/meliusuae

Camille Hogg