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Sunday, 22 July 2012

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All hail Hanoi

Lunchtime tends to become a bit mundane during the week, often with quick-and-cheap often taking priority over taste and style. Tiring of the same old sandwich fillings, we snuck out of the office for a quick work lunch – and we’ve vowed to leave our lunchboxes at home as a result.

There’s an array of fast food aromas wafting on to Khalifa Street during the day, with many fast food eateries trying to attract you. Hanoi doesn’t stand out, and its exterior is definitely dated. Inside though you’ll find it considerably more welcoming.

We were lucky to find a free table; the café and restaurant (with seating downstairs and upstairs) was bustling with lunchtime eaters and the atmosphere was friendly and lively. We were greeted instantly by eager staff and welcomed with a pot of green tea.

The menu is extensive, and despite a few dodgy-looking pictures that do the food no justice, all the options sound appealing. We called on the expertise of the waitress for a final decision; she suggested we start with Imperial spring rolls and sweet potato shrimp patti (which we assume is Hanoi-ese for ‘patty’).

Both come with a clear dip in place of the usual sweet chilli sauce that seems to accompany so many Asian dishes. But this dip beats a chilli sauce hands down. It’s Hanoi’s ‘special sauce’; with a hint of garlic and lemon, chilli and vinegar, it delivers a punch to the palette and not a single drop went to waste.

The spring rolls were light and crispy. The sweet potato shrimp patti was the definite winner, though, with fresh shrimp poking through thin layers of potato which had been quickly dipped in and out of the fryer for a light, crunchy coating.

Washing down our starters with a tangy ginger root smoothie and refreshing coconut juice, we moved on to pan-fried chicken with lemongrass and chilli and a hot and sour seafood rice noodle soup.

The soup was an interesting affair. Swapping between fork and soup spoon, we fished out large chunks of hamour and shrimp while drinking up the broth. According to the menu, the broth in all Hanoi’s noodle soups takes 12 hours of slow cooking. It carried a slight spice and was pleasant, although not remarkably different from a number of other Vietnamese restaurants. We weren’t too sure on the large slices of pineapple and tomato swimming amid the fish but the overall dish was pleasing.

The chicken however was delightful. It’s not an overly spicy dish, but it is full of flavour and the hint of lemongrass really makes it. Accompanied with plain white rice, this is a plate to feast on – if you’re sharing it won’t last long.

We ended our lunch with a little dessert, opting for the more unusual option on the menu – lotus seed and longan in fragrant syrup. The syrup is sweet with an almond flavour, but lying at the bottom of the dessert glass is an altogether different taste ... and it’s an acquired one. After sampling the slightly chewy longan and lotus seed we decided to leave the rest in the remains of the syrup.

For a slightly healthier fast food menu than most diners offer, Hanoi is a great choice. Without having to part with too many dirhams you get a range of authentic dishes that bring the fun back into lunchtime eating. We’ll just stick to banana fritters and ice cream for dessert next time.

What? Hanoi Café and Restaurant

Where? Khalifa Street, opposite Al Noor Hospital

How much? AED 130 for appetiser, shared main dish and a brave attempt at dessert

Why? If you can get through the traffic quickly enough, this is the perfect place for fast food in a busy lunch hour. Hanoi delivers too!

Why not? Skip past the noodle soup and don’t be too daring on your dessert choice.

Rated: 7 out of 10

Contact: 02 626 1112

[Writer] Charlie Kennedy

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