A steakhouse with just enough skill in fine dining to fight off any pistol-wielding competition; Rodeo Grill serves up the real deal.

The interior of Rodeo Grill sets a welcoming steakhouse tone with dark wood, large leather seats and a smattering of black and white cowboy film stars framed on the brick walls.

The menu affirms true meat credentials too – but with a more refined edge. We get the impression a true cowboy may be asked to take off his hat and spurs before pondering the steak options.

Appetisers are fronted up with the selling line “to stimulate your appetite”. And that they do. A perfectly-presented portion of pan fried duck foie gras, with caramelised apples and balsamic cherries blends warm, smooth flavours that definitely tease the palette; fragrant and delicate, it’s a match made in heaven.

The menu choice is expansive on a whole, but meat is the name of the game at Rodeo Grill and Chef Andrew Sanderson certainly knows his stuff.

The fillet steak (Wagyu beef from Australia), at a marvellous marbling grade of nine, is served per 250g. Apart from arriving a little too pink for personal preferences, it’s a main served well – and the proof is in the tender taste. With a choice of béarnaise, green peppercorn and mushroom sauce, served alongside asparagus wrapped in a shaved slice of carrot with creamy mash, the air of sophistication creeps back in. The main is kept from levels of pretentious and a side of onion rings is a welcome accompaniment to steak.

On recommendation, chocolate soufflé ends the meal. It takes 28 minutes to cook, so is ordered as the main is placed at the table. The soufflé is rich and intense and very filling. After two such delightfully filling courses, such a rich dessert isn’t necessary but it’s an indulgent treat – and a good one.

Rodeo Grill offers an authentic, upscale version of a great steakhouse. A great mix of diners and plenty of reservation signs out across the venue on a regular basis confirm that this is one restaurant that knows how, and is known to, deliver a really great meaty meal.

What? Rodeo Grill
Where? Beach Rotana
Cost: AED 480 excluding drinks and taxes per person
Why? Attentive staff, a knowledgeable chef and expansive menu choice
Why not? It’s not the cheapest of venues for a hearty meal
We say: Go with an empty stomach – you’ll reap the rewards
Contact: 02 697 9000

Charlie Kennedy