Over the last forty years the capital has developed from a small desert community into the bustling metropolis that we see today. But despite the rapidly changing skyline, one aspect of the city’s natural heritage has remained relatively untouched – the coastal mangroves. Abu Dhabi Week jumps in a kayak and paddles off to explore

It’s approaching 6.30am and the temperature is refreshingly cool as we arrive at the E48 launch point just outside the city centre on Salam Street. There’s a refreshing breeze in the air and a number of early morning fishermen have already set up their rods on the rocks hoping to catch some breakfast.

We’re greeted by the friendly Ernesto and Roger from the Noukhada Adventure Company, the two guys who are going to be taking us out on their eco-tour of the mangroves. With a smile that never seems to leave his face, Ernesto explains that we’re just waiting for a group of students from NYU Abu Dhabi to arrive before we can get under way and he gives us a drybag to store and protect our camera in.

A few minutes later a minibus pulls up and a group of about two dozen fresh-faced students jump out, eager to explore a side of Abu Dhabi that is a world away from the normal hustle and bustle of their campus, the shopping malls and traffic-laden streets.

After a quick safety briefing from Roger, during which he explains the fundamentals of kayaking and some basic oar signals, we all put on our lifejackets and clamber down onto the small beach from where we will be launching the kayaks.

Splitting us into two groups, we stow our drybag in webbing on the back of the plastic sit-on kayak, walk out into the shallow water and clamber aboard. Having never been kayaking before, we’re initially a little nervous but we needn’t have been – as we paddle out into the sea, we find that the kayak is pretty stable and easy to control.

A little way in the distance to our left, Roger points out a break in the dense mangroves that we are heading for and picking up our speed a little bit we follow him over the gently undulating waves. Within ten minutes we’ve made it, and turning into a narrow channel the sea breeze drops and we’re soon surrounded on both sides by lush green vegetation.

This is our first time out in the mangroves and we’re almost overcome by the stillness and tranquility. Although we can’t see them, a variety of gentle bird noises fill the air and as we paddle close to the bank we can spot shoals of little fish swimming between the roots of the trees and a number of little purple crabs scurrying along the banks.

Placing the oar on our knees, we float along on the current for a little bit as Roger indicates a small beach a few hundred metres ahead of us, where a poster suspended between a couple of paddles marks our first stop-off point.

As we reach the beach and step out of the kayaks to pull them up out of the water, we realise why we were advised to wear old shoes and clothes – we’re already pretty wet and dirty with a decent coating of sand on our feet from getting in and out of the sea. We then clamber up a small bank and gather in front of the poster for the first of two talks about mangrove ecology.

The UAE is home to the grey mangrove or ‘ghurm’, as it is known locally. The forest on the eastern side of Salam Street actually measures more than 20 square kilometres and more than 75 percent of the country’s mangroves can be found
in Abu Dhabi.

The mangroves here have specialised root-like structures which stick up out of the soil like straws, allowing them to breathe and the forests have evolved to live and thrive in salt water whilst supporting a variety of marine and animal species. The mangrove’s trees are natural filters that improve the water quality and also protect the city’s coastal areas, acting as natural buffers against storms and
bad weather.

Feeling much more informed, we jump back into our kayaks and continue along the channel. We’re really starting to
get the hang of it now and can paddle along at a fair old lick with a decent amount of control, dragging the oar in the water behind us every now and then to change direction.

Our newfound skills are soon put to good use as the stillness is suddenly broken by the roar of a motor. Boats are not normally seen cruising the waterways of the mangroves because of the negative impact they have, but this is just the coastguard on his jetski come to check that everything is in order. We turn our kayaks to face the oncoming wake to prevent us from capsizing; the coastguard gives us a cheery wave and is soon on his way – peace and quiet is restored.

A short paddle later and we’re pulling up at the next stop-off point on the other bank for the second talk, which this time is more focused on the actual wildlife that inhabits the mangroves. We’re given a number of laminated photo-sheets showing us the different types of birds, marine life and other animals you can expect to see at different times of the year. We’re asked not to venture too far from shore because apparently this is where a female red fox and her cubs have made their set and we don’t want to disturb them. Unfortunately we don’t actually get a sight of them but the paw prints in the sand are proof of their existence.

Back in the kayaks and we’re on to the final leg of our tour, where we’re free to explore some of the more narrow channels. Every now and then, through breaks in the trees, we can just about make out the distant skyline of Abu Dhabi and in particular the nearly completed Eastern Mangroves Resort. Wondering whether the construction there has adversely affected the mangroves, we ask Roger, but he seems to think that although the channels were blocked for a while, causing the water to stagnate and some marine life to die, the waterways are now free-flowing again and hopefully any damage caused was not permanent.

As the morning continues to heat up, we turn around and it’s time to begin making our way back, keeping our eyes out for any signs of life as we go. We see lots of the little purple crabs, some fish and the occasional small bird, but the highlight of the return trip is a large grey heron flapping closely overhead.

It’s approaching 9.30am as we arrive back at the launch point and after a good two and a half hours in the kayaks our arms are beginning to ache a little bit but it’s all been worth it. The chance to explore the hidden world of Abu Dhabi has been fascinating and refreshing – it’s definitely something that we recommend everyone try at least once.

Noukhada Adventure Company is an eco-tour operator that offers a wide range of activities in addition to its kayak tours, including kayak fishing, sailing, trail biking and blo-karting. For more information, visit www.noukhada.ae or call 02 650 3600

Jon Muller

Mangrove and crab a symbiotic relationship

Mangroves are unique ecosystems of mutually dependent plant and animal species, an essential part of Abu Dhabi’s healthy coastal environment. Paddling through the marine forest, the most prevalent form of wildlife on display are the multitudes of purple crabs scurrying along the banks and up and down the trees.

The tree provides the crab with mud to make its burrows, as well as shade and shelter; leaf litter provides the crab with food.
The crab burrows aerate the soil, allowing the tree to breathe more easily; water flooding in to the burrows at high tide cools the mud providing the tree with relief from the heat.

Stand up and paddle

While the mangroves are relatively protected, there is one thing that is still causing damage – the thoroughfare of motorised boats and jetskis. The wake generated by fast moving vessels laps against the banks, resulting in erosion and subsidence.
Although kayaking is one of the most low impact methods of exploring, there are other more unique ways to see the mangroves that are just as environmentally friendly. If you want to be a little bit more adventurous, why not try stand-up paddling?

For more info, visit www.abudhabisup.com