You may think that nothing existed in Abu Dhabi bar barasti huts and sand tracks before the 1960s, but archaeological findings are proving otherwise. Abu Dhabi Week digs deep to unearth the Emirate’s rich history

The year is 1958 and the discovery of oil in the Emirate has been made. But the year 1958 also sees another historic event – the arrival of Danish archaeologists, invited by the rulers of Abu Dhabi, to not only make history, but also find it.

The Emirate has been a hive of archaeological activity ever since, and with good reason. Just two weeks ago, a team of archaeologists uncovered yet more historical sites, bringing the total number of discoveries to 40 on one area alone – Sir Bani Yas Island.

“Sir Bani Yas Island is a fantastic example of the Emirate’s extensive history,” says Dr Joseph Elders, archaeological director of the Sir Bani Yas Monastery Project.

“Despite the fact that the island has very limited natural water supplies, unlike neighbouring Dalma Island, it has homed many inhabitants over thousands of years. Many people set up home there.”

One piece of evidence of civilisation on the island is the 6th century Christian monastery – the only early Christian site known in the UAE – where remains are still being unearthed.

Keen to find out more about the monastery and the island’s history, we jump in the car for the two-hour drive to Jebel Dhanna port where we catch the boat across to the picturesque natural island.

The water is anything but calm when we board the boat, and despite the journey taking only 20 minutes from the mainland, we wonder quite how inhabitants survived on such islands before the likes of powered boats made land more accessible. We calm our stomachs by trying to dolphin spot, but the waters are even to rough for them on this particularly windy day. Thankfully, the boat makes it across the water in one piece and we gladly jump to shore.

The monastery site – thought to have been built by the Church of the East (also known as the East Syrian Church) is not too far from the island’s shoreline, with a clear view across to the water and the island’s natural bay.

“The natural sand bank acts as a buffer from the sea and would have certainly eased arrivals from fishermen and traders. The bay is also quite sheltered; the site has a clear view of the bay, designed so that the inhabitants could see who was arriving at any time,” says Dr Elizabeth Popescu, deputy director of the Sir Bani Yas archaeological site.

“The monastery would have been a good stop off point for travellers; similar sites would have been placed all along the coast up to Oman,” Elders adds.

The site itself, discovered by the team in 1992, is now open to the public. Even those who may find a pile of rocks and rubble not the most exciting thing to witness may be swept up by the very real, human elements of its history. We’re amazed to see the smudges and imprints of fingers, where plasterwork has been finished off, and we spot the charred semi-circle on the ground in one of the monastery’s rooms, where bread would have been baked. There are freshly found fragments of colourful pottery on the ground – a trace of the island’s trading background.

“We have found pottery from India and Iraq – clear evidence that the island was on one of the major trade routes. The interesting fact is that Abu Dhabi certainly played a big role in history. It makes complete sense too - the Gulf joins all major routes,” Elders adds.
Dr Popescu has worked on the island since 1992 with the arrival of the last troupe of archaeologists. She appears to have the same enthusiasm for the project.

“It’s been fantastic to really watch this site reveal itself. We can work out so much about the people’s lives here on the island. Not just from the building foundations left behind, but from food remnants, glass, pottery and more,” she says, showing us past a new wall, uncovered just days ago.

Elders agrees. “We not only have evidence of the type of life lived by these people, but the languages spoken [several languages in fact], their diet, their livelihood, their arrival and their departure from Sir Bani Yas.”

The Christian monastery is thought to have homed 30 to 40 monks who would have come to the island to spread the message of Christianity.

We’re shown a drawing of how the church would have once looked. It’s very traditional in style, and we’re told that it was highly decorated with plaster crosses.

“What’s particularly lovely about some of the plaster found is the intricate patterns, blending Christian symbols with images of palm leaves and other clear UAE symbols,” explains Popescu.

“There’s certainly a very clear indication of the tolerance of the people,” adds Elders. “The monastery survived a century – it was founded just before Islam, and lasted up until 750 AD perhaps. There was certainly no discourtesy shown between religions.”

It’s this same remarkable investigative spirit that has helped identify other sites - both here and on the mainland - that have helped people uncover the rich history of culture and heritage in Abu Dhabi and the surrounding area.

“Since being invited back to the Emirate in 1992, we found three islands of particular historical interest – Dalma Island, Sir Bani Yas and Umm an-Nar. But there is certainly much more out there. We’ve found plenty of evidence of Bronze Age and Stone Age settlements – of all periods in fact across Abu Dhabi and the UAE,” explains Elders.

“Sir Bani Yas Island for example was in use right up until the 1930s when the pearling industry died. From the 18th century we have evidence of new settlements, who actually sheltered in the abandoned monastery. A lot of inhabitants on Dalma Island had houses on Sir Bani Yas that they lived in each summer.

“Abu Dhabi has a very important and vibrant history. Piecing together the Emirate’s past helps preserve it for future generations to appreciate.”

Charlie Kennedy

Top sites
Fancy delving into the Emirate’s past? Here are some of Abu Dhabi Week’s top spots to explore

Qarn Bint Saud: 600-1,100 BC

In February 1970, the Danish archaeology team made an excursion in two Land Rovers to a 40-metre high rock formation in the middle of the Abu Dhabi desert and found it covered with stone graves, complete with finds dating from the Iron Age. On the way down the east side of the rock they stumbled upon a cave with ancient carvings and red painted figures of animals and symbols.

Umm an-Nar settlement and graves: 2,000-2,700 BC

Although the island of Umm an-Nar is relatively small, the characteristics of its ancient history have made ‘Umm an-Nar culture’ an internationally recognised term for the civilisation that prevailed throughout the Arabian Gulf and southeast Arabia over four thousand years ago. Jewellery, copper weapons and imported red pottery vessels have all been found, along with 50 above-ground tombs at this location.

Hili Grand Tomb: 2,000-2,400 BC and Hili Tower: 2,000-2,500 BC

In 1962 the Grand Tomb site consisted of a low mound with a circular spread of stones protruding through sand and rubble, known to locals as ‘The Sitting Stones’.
It was excavated in 1964-65 and in 1970 a reconstruction plan was made; later an Iraqi restoration team reconstructed the monument to its current state.
Inside the tomb – divided into four chambers – there were originally hundreds of pottery vessels and soft stone jars, beads and copper artefacts, all very similar to the finds from the graves in Umm an-Nar.
In 1969-70, a large earthen mound 50 metres northeast of the Hili Grand Tomb revealed the foundations of a massive tower built of mud brick surrounded by a four-to-five metre deep moat.
Around the tower, pottery similar to that found at the Hili Grand Tomb was found, providing evidence that the people who built the tower were the same people who were buried in the Grand Tomb.