Suit yourself

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Leaving the high street behind, we go in search for a bespoke suit that won’t burst your wallet

Men who own a standard black suit or at least a collared shirt and smart trousers know that it’s going to get good usage, as many of us need to wear a suit to work.

But keeping your look fresh and ensuring your clothes fit properly can turn shopping for office attire into a headache. And suits aren’t cheap. A standard, off-the-rack black suit from Zara will cost you AED 890.

An off-the-rack suit with a standard fit can often need alterations or worse, replacing – and let’s face it, we don’t all look like the model in the catalogue. So why not pay a little more for an outfit that will last longer, fit better and look sharper?

The capital is bursting at the seams with independent tailors, but how do you know which one to choose?

After a tip off from a reader, we put Allure Fine Tailoring & Fabrics in Madinat Zayed Shopping Centre to the test.

On arrival, we’re pleased to see the tailor looks more Bond Street than back street.

The store manager, Amit Nichani, says, “We pride ourselves on attention to detail and customers’ needs. Your experience from the start is paramount to us. We don’t feel there is an end to the process because between the customer and tailor, it’s a relationship.”

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The process

With hundreds of rolls of material, it’s hard to know where to start. The man who knows his threads, sales manager Hamza Cathim, says, “We can advise on what material to choose based on your needs, whether it’s for a suit for a special occasion or work or a winter sports jacket.”

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Amit adds, “It would be easy for us to recommend the more expensive, higher thread count materials, but after your suit becomes creased from sitting down all day, a lower thread count material which is more durable would have been the better option. It’s about your happiness of the product, not for us to make more profit.”

Once we’ve chosen our material – 130 thread-count wool with cashmere for business events and special occasions – we speak with cutter master Mohammed Aslam about the style of suit we want. He recommends a single button jacket with a slim fit to accentuate our physique.

Mohammed tells us more about his work as he measures us. “I’ve been tailoring for 39 years,” he says. “I’ve spent most of my life working in this industry and it’s who I am.

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“I do this for client satisfaction. Our comments book at the front desk says it all. When a customer returns I know I’ve succeeded and a relationship has now started.”

According to the veteran tailor, suit making is a dying art.

“You have to work extremely hard, mastering needle and thread work, precision cutting and of course working your way up the ranks. It should take at least ten years to become a respectable tailor. Many people won’t dedicate a large part of their life to it. But I have, and I make suits to be proud of.

“I keep up to date with the latest fashionable suit cuts and also keep true to traditional styles. We tailor to your every need.”

The process from start to finish includes an initial fitting and material selection, a second fitting for final adjustments along with the selection of your jacket lining, then a third meeting for final checks before you collect your suit.

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It takes around two weeks for the suit to be made. For a black, standard two-piece suit, you’ll pay AED 1,200.

Want a tailored suit for less? Allure will also tailor you a two-piece suit from material you’ve sourced yourself for AED 750.

The verdict

The sleeve and trouser length is spot on, with shoulder and chest movement feeling comfortable and non-restrictive. The material feels durable and the stitching of buttons feels solid: they won’t be coming off anytime soon. The style looks crisp. The jacket hugs our midriff well, and we like the straight, slim trousers. A single button on the jacket is simple and chic. But the stand out feature is the attention to detail. Slightly higher lapels accentuate the chest, and the zesty lining catches the eye when the jacket is opened. The bottom line? Kudos to the Allure team for making a one-off power suit to be proud of.

Final touches

Allure also offers ties, cufflinks and tailored shirts – its plethora of materials and colours will make you feel like a child in a sweet shop.

You can choose from six different collar styles, six different cuffs and 20 font types if you want your initials stitched to your cuff. AED 250 for a tailored shirt excluding initials, AED 265 with initials. If you supply your own material, a tailored shirt costs AED 75 with a classic cuff, AED 85 double cuff. For those wanting that extra sparkle, mother of pearl collar stiffeners are available for AED 150.

Details

Allure Fine Tailoring & Fabrics, Madinat Zayed Shopping Centre, Shop No.1.
Contact: 02 491 0873 
delight@allure-tailoring.com
www.allure-tailoring.com  

Jack Dignum
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