DETAILS
What: Rodeo Grill
Where: Beach Rotana, Al Zahia
We say: Exemplary cooking, top service
Cost: Starters from AED 40; mains from AED 90 (steaks from AED 200); desserts from AED 40
Contact: 02 697 9011
Not so long ago, there was only one good steak house in Abu Dhabi. That’s all changed now, of course, but has Beach Rotana’s Rodeo Grill kept up with the competition?
It’s certainly had a makeover. The interior was revamped recently, with the original open-to-the-walkway layout replaced by a wall and door; inside it’s all stained wood and high-back leather chairs, clubby yet intimate and cosy.
Adam Ashe arrived as executive chef a year ago, and he’s since been shopping for suppliers and ingredients. He’s also installed a couple of Jospers, an oven-cum-grill (and Smokehouse) that cooks at high temperatures to seal, grill or roast without baking or overcooking. Just about everything at Rodeo Grill is done in the Josper – meat, fish and veg.
The menu is classic steakhouse with a twist. No burgers, of course, although there is a decent selection of fish including oysters and roasted salmon from the Faroe Islands. But you’re probably here for the meat, and the steaks do come from some very classy animals – two grades of Australian wagyu, 21-day grass-fed Irish, 100% American Black Angus.
We know this because the Meat Master told us. He comes to your table with a tray of discreetly clothed steak to show you how the cut ends differ. Our Meat Master was felicitously called Butch, but the waiters take it in turns to do the job and as a result they are knowledgeable about the food. It gives us confidence; as does the advice of the sommelier, who runs a shortish New World-heavy list.
When the food arrives, it’s excellent. We start with a thin slice of luscious Scottish smoked salmon and potato and chive salad; even better is the grilled asparagus with a poached egg and green salad.
The protein course is even better. One 250g wagyu ribeye and a 200g Angus tenderloin were both meltingly tender and powerfully tasty (though distinctively different: thank you, Butch). A choice of potato comes with the dish – we had the creamy gratin, but the French fries looked great too. Our cheery waiter Amado suggested a collection of taster pots of the sauces available, a great idea.
So is the dessert taster plate, which is ideal for sharing especially. Small versions of the Rodeo Grill’s crème brulée, carrot cake with cinnamon ice cream and two very clever specials – mini cheesecake doughnuts and a chocolate, caramel and sea salt tart.
The ambiance is good, and the quality of the food, the ingredients, the cooking and the service are impeccable. Standards are high here and it shows. Rodeo Grill still has it.
