Set in the charming Souk Qaryat al Beri, Ushna is not your typical fine dining Indian restaurant.
With an inviting and somehow whimsical décor (cue the swinging seats) and a menu full of surprises, this welcoming restaurant turns out to be one of the city’s true gastronomic destinations.
We start off the night with a refreshing glass of pomegranate and lychee with cardamom hints. And then under the influence of our server’s contagious enthusiasm, we watch as a seemingly endless stream of piping hot plates arrive at our table.
From the simpler flavours – such as the flaky melt-in-your-mouth paratha – to the more elaborate (like the surprising sweet-and-savoury kick of the tandoori apple salad), it’s a real challenge to decide our highlights.
The vegetarian, who has a soft spot for paneer, savours the bharwan tandoori aloo, a baked potato topped with chunks of the mild cheese and crunchy mixed nuts. A second paneer dish, kadhai paneer, proves just as tasty, with stir-fried onions and bell peppers complementing the diced cheese.
The meat-eater digs into a bowl of andhra mutton curry, scooping up chunks of tender chilli-spiced meat, before moving on to the traditional murgh makhani with its sweet and creamy chicken bites swimming in a tomato gravy.
But our favourite dish of the night is the simple but flavourful dhuyein ka tandoori mushroom and broccoli. A bamboo steamer covers sizzling charcoal, which adds a smoky flavour to the whole chunks of spiced vegetables that sit on top. This was really tasty and really different.
Curious to know what else Ushna’s team has in store, we order desserts. We try the gajar ka halwa, a fresh carrot cake with a crunchy soul of nuts and cardamom; our guest chooses a malai pista kulfi, traditional Indian ice cream served with luscious caramelised milk solids and rose pistachios.
Ushna has it all: outstanding food by Chef Sandeep Ail, flawless service, stunning views of the Grand Mosque and a sleek yet relaxed atmosphere.
Laura Volpi
Details
What: Ushna
Where: Souk Qaryat Al Beri, Between the Bridges
We say: Simple ingredients transformed into extraordinary dishes.
Cost: Starters from AED 49; mains from AED 52; desserts from AED 36
Contact: 02 558 1769