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Impressive Indian

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Set in the charming Souk Qaryat al Beri, Ushna is not your typical fine dining Indian restaurant.

With an inviting and somehow whimsical décor (cue the swinging seats) and a menu full of surprises, this welcoming restaurant turns out to be one of the city’s true gastronomic destinations.

We start off the night with a refreshing glass of pomegranate and lychee with cardamom hints. And then under the influence of our server’s contagious enthusiasm, we watch as a seemingly endless stream of piping hot plates arrive at our table.

From the simpler flavours – such as the flaky melt-in-your-mouth paratha – to the more elaborate (like the surprising sweet-and-savoury kick of the tandoori apple salad), it’s a real challenge to decide our highlights.

The vegetarian, who has a soft spot for paneer, savours the bharwan tandoori aloo, a baked potato topped with chunks of the mild cheese and crunchy mixed nuts. A second paneer dish, kadhai paneer, proves just as tasty, with stir-fried onions and bell peppers complementing the diced cheese.

The meat-eater digs into a bowl of andhra mutton curry, scooping up chunks of tender chilli-spiced meat, before moving on to the traditional murgh makhani with its sweet and creamy chicken bites swimming in a tomato gravy.

But our favourite dish of the night is the simple but flavourful dhuyein ka tandoori mushroom and broccoli. A bamboo steamer covers sizzling charcoal, which adds a smoky flavour to the whole chunks of spiced vegetables that sit on top. This was really tasty and really different.

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Curious to know what else Ushna’s team has in store, we order desserts. We try the gajar ka halwa, a fresh carrot cake with a crunchy soul of nuts and cardamom; our guest chooses a malai pista kulfi, traditional Indian ice cream served with luscious caramelised milk solids and rose pistachios.

Ushna has it all: outstanding food by Chef Sandeep Ail, flawless service, stunning views of the Grand Mosque and a sleek yet relaxed atmosphere.

Laura Volpi

 

Details

What: Ushna

Where: Souk Qaryat Al Beri, Between the Bridges

We say: Simple ingredients transformed into extraordinary dishes.

Cost: Starters from AED 49; mains from AED 52; desserts from AED 36

Contact: 02 558 1769

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