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Abu Dhabi Week dives back in time to discover more about pearl diving

A not so long time ago, Abu Dhabi – and the rest of the UAE – was better known for its homegrown pearl diving industry rather than the glitzy skylines, rapid development and luxurious living that have come to characterise the country.

In the 19th and early 20th Centuries, before oil was discovered, pearling would provide much needed income to the Gulf region. Pearls fished here were traded throughout the world, but mainly to India, where the shiny gems would find themselves studding crowns and other jewellery made for royalty.

Divers would typically head to sea in the warmer months, when the waters were not only temperate, but also more stable, making it more suitable for dives. Despite the precautions, pearl diving was a risky business in which young men needed to be strong enough to sustain a number of dives each day all while holding their breath and diving into deep waters.

“People here had a hard life. The lifestyle was very tough. There was no option, either they went and dived for pearls or they faced a hard life at land,” explains Humaid Al Hammadi, an Emirati tour guide with the Abu Dhabi Pearl Journey. The cultural initiative is the brainchild of Ali Alsaloom and lets tourists and residents take a tour of the waters around the capital while teaching guests about the history of pearling in and around the region.

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“The idea of this programme is to revitalise and reintroduce the pearl journey. Pearl diving is part of our traditions and we have a long history that we are proud of. This will give you an introduction to the culture of the deep – the way people lived, the challenges they went through, and the lifestyle they had,” adds Al Hammadi.

We’re sitting on a traditional jalboot or pearling dhow – that’s named Jawani – after a type of pearl, naturally. Floating on the docks behind the Eastern Mangroves Hotel our Emirati guide begins by explaining how pearls are formed. When sediments or other irritants enter an oyster’s shell, the mollusk secretes a special substance over them to avoid further damage. Doing this over and over again, oysters can produce beautifully iridescent pearls.

Before modern technology got involved, pearl divers would use a variety of simple tools to gather clusters of oysters from the ocean. With mesh baskets hung around their neck, the divers would first begin by applying an ointment made from the Acacia tree to help protect their skin from the harsh sea salt. Afterwards they donned cow leather fingertip caps, called khaboouth, to shield their hands from the rough seabed.

With a pair of feetam, or nose clips, typically made of turtle bone secured in place, the divers would use a heavy weight attached to a rope to help them sink to the bottom of the seabed. Running the rope through their toes, they’d gather as many clusters of oysters as they could before tugging on the rope to be pulled up.

“Oysters are like people, they live in tribes. When oysters are lying at the bottom of the sea, they create a bond with each other to fight the waves. They are connected to each other,” says Al Hammadi.

Doing hundreds of dives a day didn’t always guarantee a successful outing. Natural pearls occurring in the waters are extremely rare and the months at sea didn’t always provide divers with a sustainable income. Despite this, pearling was popular with a variety of inhabitants keen for a brighter future.

In the late 1930’s the diving industry would suffer a major blow from the worldwide recession, topped with the discovery of the cultured pearl, causing a rapid decline in the pearl diving industry. Fortunately for the UAE however, the discovery of oil a decade later would kickstart trade and the local economy once again.

After our history lesson, it’s our turn to see some pearling in action. The Abu Dhabi Pearl Journey provides every guest with a locally farmed oyster that our guide slits openly skillfully with a sharp knife called a maflaq to reveal a luminous pearl keepsake. After selecting our shell, we are delighted when we discover that our pearl – a dark grey beauty – hidden among the mantle tissue is magnificently shaped and almost perfectly round. A beautiful keepsake from a wonderful journey.

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Dive in!

Tours cost AED 500 for adults, AED 400 for children below 12 years of age. Group discounts are also available. For more information visit: www.adpearljourney.com

Maritime Museum

Keen to preserve the nautical traditions of the UAE, the capital is planning on building a Maritime Museum on Saadiyat Island. Located in the city’s cultural district, which will also house the Louvre Abu Dhabi and Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, the museum will be dedicated to celebrating the country’s relationship with the sea. For a visual overview of what is to come, we suggest you visit Manarat Al Saadiyat and check out the permanent exhibition ‘The Saadiyat Story.’ Free to attend, this exhibit will let guests learn more. For more information visit: www.saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae

Traditions to try

Eager to test out your diving skills? Then check out these venues to try your hand at pearl diving.

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Heritage hotel

Follow in the footsteps of the Bani Yas tribe with a pearl diving experience of your own. Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara and Anantara Al Yamm Villa Resort on Sir Bani Yas Island are set to offer guests a traditional pearl diving experience this March. Visitors aboard a traditional dhow will be able to take part in this time-honouread tradition and experience heritage at its best. Open to guests visiting Sir Bani Yas Island, prices for the pearl diving experience begin from AED 450++. For more information call: 02 801 5400.

Playgrounds and pearls

For a fun and interactive way to get your kids to appreciate the history of pearl diving in the UAE, why not stop off at Yas Waterworld Abu Dhabi? The popular waterpark on Yas Island showcases the role pearl diving played in the country with its theme, characters and attractions. Check out the park’s purpose-built pearl diving aquarium where visitors can watch as divers collect oysters on the sandy bed and uncover beautiful keepsake souvenirs. For more information and ticket prices visit: www.yaswaterworld.com

Sawaiba Khan
 

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