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A taste of tradition

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What is Emirati cuisine? Whether you’re new to Abu Dhabi or have lived here for decades, the answer to this question eludes many of us because Emirati restaurants in Abu Dhabi are surprisingly rare.

But Al Fanar Restaurant & Café offers a glimpse into local culture and cuisine with its Bedouin-inspired décor and traditional food. Nostalgia permeates from all corners as you look at the life-size models and objects that replicate 1960s UAE. For a fascinated guest like myself it’s like stepping inside a time capsule, to a period when life in the country was simpler – donkeys were used for transportation, modest majlis for socialising and goods peddled via camels.

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A walk through the menu reveals authentic Emirati cuisine all cooked the way it was back in the day. For starters, I go for shorabat adas or lentil soup. Its obvious lack of spice allows the natural flavour to stand out.

I’m still devouring the soup when my mixed appetiser of koftat samak, hobool and samboosa arrives. The hobool or deep fried fish roe is one of the best sellers. The type of fish used is “a secret”, I’m told, and diners are often left wondering while relishing the dish.

I also love the koftat samak – deep-fried crumbled fish with onion and coriander leaves in special spices. Dip it into the special sweet and spicy house sauce for extra kick. The samboosa – fried pastry with vegetables filling – is all right although a bit bland.

One of the highlights of the meal is my main course, jesheed –minced baby shark meat mixed with herbs and spices. It goes well with the basmati rice and the generous portion means it’s sufficient for two.

The manager recommends asidat al tamor, or Emirati date pudding, for dessert. This soft treat is pleasantly gooey but not overly sweet. Regulars often order this and old locals are said to become nostalgic as it reminds them of yesteryears.

I also delve into a bowl of luqaimat, crispy fried dough balls coated in date syrup – a clear winner for me. A hot black tea caps off my meal and I notice that various other diners – mostly locals enjoying a meal with friends and family – are starting to fill up the place.

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I learn that some tourists include the restaurant in their itinerary so they can better grasp the culture. It really is like a museum made better by the authentic delicacies. It’s definitely worth another visit – and next time kebabs are on my radar.

Details:

Location: Grand Canal, Venetian Village, The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi
We say: Genuine Emirati recipes and ambiance at affordable prices
Cost: AED 151 for two
Opening times: Daily noon-1am
Contact: 02 448 1144 www.alfanarrestaurant.com

Ferdinand Godinez

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